Zaqatala

Zaqatala lies in the northwest of Azerbaijan, pressed against the southern slopes of the Greater Caucasus and very close to the border with Georgia. The town smells of walnut: the trees here are enormous, some with trunks over a metre in diameter lining the main Heydar Aliyev street. In September, when the walnuts fall and vendors fill the market stalls with sacks of them in bulk, that smell of tannin and damp wood is what the traveller most remembers on the way home.

It is a medium-sized town, without the crowds of Baku or the tourist momentum of Sheki. The buildings in the centre mix two-storey houses with enclosed gardens and Soviet-era blocks in varying states. The atmosphere is quiet, and the coexistence of different ethnic groups —Avars, Tsakhurs, Georgians— has a day-to-day visibility in the area that stands out. The proximity to Zaqatala National Park makes the surrounding area accessible by car or on foot from the centre.

The Russian fortress in the centre is the most visible landmark: a thick-walled enclosure that the Russians built in the 19th century to control raids by Caucasian tribes. Today it serves as a public park, with old trees growing between the bastions and families strolling in the evening. Entry is free and there are no official opening hours.

The Zaqatala region was inhabited by eastern Caucasian peoples for centuries before the Russian arrival. In the early 19th century the Russian Empire fought a prolonged war here against the Lezgian and Avar communities resisting Tsarist expansion. The Zaqatala fortress was built around 1830 as a military outpost and gave its name to the settlement that grew up around it. During the Soviet period the local economy focused on walnut, tea and tobacco cultivation. The ethnic diversity of the area —with Avar, Tsakhur and Georgian communities— stems from that complex settlement history of the eastern Greater Caucasus.

• Russian fortress 19th-century walled enclosure in the town centre. The brick bastions are well preserved and the interior is now a tree-lined public park frequented by families. Free entry, open all day.
• Walnut market In September and October the stalls in the central bazaar fill up with fresh walnuts, mountain honey and forest fruits. The price per kilogram is a fraction of what they cost in Baku.
• Zaqatala National Park Beech and hornbeam forests on the slopes of the Greater Caucasus, with hiking trails leading to waterfalls and alpine zones. The park entrance is a few kilometres from the centre.
• Ilisu village 25 km away, with a medieval tower and direct views of the Greater Caucasus peaks. The dirt track is passable in summer with a four-wheel-drive vehicle.

Zaqatala is about 330 km from Baku via the motorway towards Ganja and then a secondary road north. Buses from Baku's bus terminal cover the journey in about 5–6 hours. From Sheki, 80 km to the east, marshrutkas depart from early morning. The town has no airport of its own; the nearest with regular flights is Ganja.

May and June are the best months weather-wise: temperatures between 20 and 28 degrees, forests green and without the full humidity of summer. July and August are warm but more bearable than in the lowlands thanks to the altitude. September is excellent: walnut harvest, good temperatures and clear mountain light. In winter it can snow and some routes into Zaqatala National Park close.