Yanar Bulag

Yanar Bulag —yanar bulaq, «burning spring» in Azerbaijani— delivers exactly what its name promises: water rises from the ground charged with methane, and that gas burns with a calm, continuous flame over the pool. There is no roar or explosion. It is a low flame, just a few centimetres high, burning steadily as if someone had left a stove on at the water's edge. The smell of sulphur is faint, almost imperceptible, and the sound is that of the forest of the Talysh Mountains all around.

The spring is located in Lerik District, in the Talysh region, at the far south of Azerbaijan. The surroundings are surprising: green, damp and forested, far removed from the arid landscape of the Absheron Peninsula with which fire is usually associated in this country. The slopes covered in beech and hornbeam contrast with the small flame flickering over the cold water.

What draws attention, beyond the fire, is that the water is drinkable. Cold, naturally carbonated, with a mild mineral taste. Locals from nearby villages regularly come with empty bottles and drink it as it is. The visit takes about thirty to forty minutes: enough time to see the flame, taste the water and explore the small surroundings before continuing to Lerik or heading back down to Lankaran.

The oil and gas deposits that extend beneath the southern Azerbaijan subsurface explain the existence of Yanar Bulag: methane migrates from deep layers and surfaces at points like this spring. The phenomenon has been known locally for centuries; 19th-century travellers left astonished descriptions of water burning in the foothills of the Talysh Mountains. During the Soviet period the site was studied geologically as part of the inventory of energy resources of the Caucasus. Today it is a domestic tourism attraction, considerably less well known outside the country than Yanar Dag on the Absheron Peninsula.

• Flame over the water The combustion of methane on the surface of the pool is the central feature. The flame is low and constant; it is best seen at dawn or dusk, when ambient light does not visually diminish it. In heavy rain it may reduce, but it rarely goes out entirely.
• Drinkable carbonated water The spring water is cold, naturally sparkling, with a mild mineral taste. Residents of villages in Lerik District regularly collect it. Bringing an empty bottle is a good idea.
• Talysh Mountains landscape The deciduous forests —beech, hornbeam, oak— surrounding the spring create a green and peaceful setting, especially striking in spring and autumn.
• Lerik District The area is known in Azerbaijan for the longevity of its population; several local records document inhabitants over a hundred years old, something locals partly attribute to the water of the region.
• Lankaran and the Caspian Sea coast The city of Lankaran, about 60 km away, offers a local market, talysh cuisine and access to the Caspian coast as a natural complement to the visit.

Photo gallery

Yanar Bulag is in Lerik District, about 250 km south of Baku. The most direct route goes through Lankaran —reachable by bus or marshrutka from Baku— and from there up a mountain road to Lerik (1–1.5 hours by marshrutka). The last stretch to the spring requires a taxi or private vehicle; there is no regular public transport to the exact spot. From Lerik, a return taxi costs approximately 10–20 AZN.

Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) are the most comfortable seasons: cool temperatures, green landscape in the Talysh Mountains and roads in good condition. Summer is humid and warm, with frequent rain in the Lankaran region. Winter is feasible but fog and rain can make the mountain roads to Lerik more difficult. The flame at Yanar Bulag is visible year-round; it is best appreciated with little ambient light.