Syunik Province

Syunik is the province furthest from Yerevan and the one that takes the most effort to reach, but also the one that holds some of the most rugged landscapes in Armenia. The south of the country here is a succession of deep gorges, turbulent rivers and mountains exceeding three thousand metres. Among them appear villages of black volcanic stone with medieval churches and the feeling that time does not run at the same pace as in the capital. The air smells of pine and damp earth throughout almost the entire province, and the silence in the high valleys can be quite striking for those arriving from Yerevan.

Kapan is the main city and the natural starting point for most excursions. It has no great attractions of its own, but its restaurants serve good Armenian food —quality khorovats and hearty soups— and from here taxis are hired to the more remote spots. Goris, further north, is the most convenient base if the main goal is Tatev Monastery. Meghri, at the far south near the Iranian border, has a warm microclimate that allows the cultivation of pomegranates and apricots; it is the only corner of Armenia where it rarely snows in winter.

The Vorotan Gorge, which the Wings of Tatev cable car crosses in about ten minutes with direct views of Tatev Monastery, sums up well what Syunik offers: nature on a considerable scale and medieval heritage integrated into it without artifice.

Syunik was during the Middle Ages an independent kingdom ruled by the Syuní princes, who built most of the fortresses and monasteries still seen in the region. Its border position —between the Persian, Turkish and Armenian worlds— turned the province into the scene of repeated invasions, but also of remarkable resistance documented in medieval Armenian chronicles. Tatev Monastery, founded in the 9th century, was for centuries the intellectual and spiritual centre of all southern Armenia. In the 20th century, Syunik became geographically isolated when the Meghri corridor became the only land connection between Armenia and the enclave of Nagorno-Karabakh. After recent conflicts, the geopolitical situation of the southern roads remains sensitive and it is advisable to check the status of the passes before travelling.

• Tatev Monastery The most significant medieval monastic complex in southern Armenia, perched on a spur above the Vorotan Gorge. Founded in the 9th century, its dark basalt walls contrast with the open sky of the ravine. Open every day; entry to the grounds is free, though a donation is recommended.
• Wings of Tatev Cable Car Five and a half kilometres of cable over the Vorotan Gorge connecting the village of Halidzor to the monastery. It is the world's longest reversible cable car according to the Guinness Book of Records. The journey takes about ten minutes and the views of the gorge are an attraction in themselves. Approximate price: 3,000 Armenian drams (about 7–8 USD) return.
• Shikahogh Nature Reserve Humid forest in the far south of the province, one of the last of its kind in the Caucasus. It is home to Caucasian leopards and brown bears, though sightings are rare. Hiking trails are poorly marked; it is advisable to hire a local guide in Kapan.
• Vorotan Gorge The Vorotan river flows between basalt walls that in some places exceed 300 metres in depth. There are paths along the upper edges with views of the canyon; the stretch between Halidzor and Tatev Monastery is the most accessible.
• Meghri and its medieval fortress The southernmost city in Armenia, just a few kilometres from the Iranian border. Its medieval fortress is partially in ruins but offers views over the Araxes river valley. The subtropical microclimate means that in January pomegranate trees still have their leaves.

Photo gallery

From Yerevan there are direct buses to Kapan (five or six hours) and to Goris, the most convenient starting point for Tatev Monastery. For Meghri and the Shikahogh Reserve a private car or taxi hired in Kapan is necessary. From Tbilisi there is no direct connection; you arrive via Yerevan or through the Iranian border at Meghri, subject to a visa.

May to October is the practical season. Trails can be muddy until mid-May in the higher areas. Summer is warm and bearable in most of the province, although Meghri can exceed 38 °C in July. Autumn brings intense colours to the forests of Shikahogh. In winter snow closes many mountain roads and complicates access to Tatev Monastery.