Sighnaghi

Sighnaghi is perched on a hilltop at the edge of the Kakheti plateau, and the first thing you see on approach is the 18th-century wall that still encircles much of the old town. From the viewpoint next to the main tower, a panorama opens to the north: the Alazani valley, wide and green, with the Greater Caucasus range snow-capped in the background at almost any time of year.

The town has only a few hundred inhabitants, but in high season — especially in September and October during the harvest — it fills with Georgian and foreign visitors who come to taste rkatsiteli or saperavi wine at the small wineries that open their doors in the narrow lanes. The houses have carved wooden balconies that jut out over the narrow pavements, and the late-afternoon light falls at a particular angle on the orange-tiled rooftops that makes many tourists unable to stop photographing.

It should be said that the renovation of the historic centre in the mid-2000s gave it a somewhat over-polished look; some details look more like reconstruction than restoration. But the urban structure and the views are genuine.

The wall of Sighnaghi was built in the 18th century on the orders of King Erekle II to protect the region from Lezgin raids from the north. With its 23 towers and almost 5 km perimeter, it was one of the most solid defences in Kakheti. The town was always tied to the wine trade and to the route connecting Tbilisi with historical Azerbaijan. In the late 20th century the village fell into considerable neglect; its recovery began with large-scale public investment from 2007, which included the restoration of the walls and the renovation of facades.

• Sighnaghi Wall The walled perimeter with semicircular towers can be partially walked on foot; from the watchtowers the views over the valley are sweeping.
• Sighnaghi Museum Georgian art collection including works by Niko Pirosmani, the naïve painter born in the region; there is also an archaeological section with Bronze Age pieces.
• Church of St George Small Orthodox church within the walled old town, active and with a quiet atmosphere away from the tourist circuit.
• Old town wineries Several private houses and small wineries offer tastings of natural wine made in kvevri; most do not require advance booking.
• North viewpoint The highest point of the wall has the best views over the Caucasus and the valley; at sunset the light is particularly good.

From Tbilisi there are marshrutkas leaving from Samgori station to Sighnaghi, taking about two hours (around 8–10 lari). You can also go by taxi or rental car along the Kakheti highway. Within the region, Sighnaghi is well connected with Telavi (about 35 km) and with Bodbe Monastery, 2 km away. There is no train.

September and October are the most popular months for the harvest: the atmosphere is festive and prices rise. May and June offer the greenest landscape and fewer tourists. Summer is warm but not extreme thanks to the altitude; in July and August the valley becomes misty in the mornings. Winter can bring snow that makes the scenery attractive but closes some wineries and services.