Shusha

Shusha sits at 1,400 metres above sea level in the Karabakh mountains, and arriving, the first thing you notice is the cool beech-scented air and the silence of a city still finding itself. After the 2020 war and Azerbaijan's recapture of the city, the government has invested heavily in restoring Shusha: freshly painted facades in ochre and white, streets cleared of rubble, new signage. The result is orderly but sparsely inhabited; scaffolding rises on many corners and visible everyday life is scarce.

The buildings that survived — the Yukhari Govhar Agha Mosque, the khans' palaces, the 19th-century baths — are restored or in the process. The Yukhari Govhar Agha Mosque is the most commanding structure: two white minarets on a hilltop overlooking the forested gorges surrounding the city. The historic footprint of Shusha is small; it can be walked in half a day without effort.

It is worth knowing the context before arriving: Shusha is also known as Shushi in Armenian, and was predominantly inhabited by Armenians for decades of the 20th century until the exodus of the 1990s war. The still-unrestored areas — blackened walls, gutted structures — tell that story without embellishment and give the visit a depth that the new facades cannot erase.

Shusha was founded around 1752 by Panah Ali Khan as the capital of the Khanate of Karabakh. During the 19th century it was a leading Azerbaijani cultural centre, renowned for its mugham tradition and its poets and composers. In the early 20th century it was the scene of violent inter-ethnic clashes. In 1992, during the first Nagorno-Karabakh war, Armenian forces took the city, which remained under Armenian control for nearly thirty years. In November 2020, Azerbaijan recaptured Shusha after the second war. The Azerbaijani government officially declared it the cultural capital of the country, a designation that now defines its reconstruction process.

• Yukhari Govhar Agha Mosque The most imposing building in the historic ensemble: two white minarets visible from almost anywhere in the city, a prayer hall with high ceilings and marble finishes. Recently restored. Access is usually free outside prayer times.
• Uzeyir Hajibeyli House-Museum Dedicated to the Azerbaijani composer who founded opera in the Turkic-Islamic world, it displays mugham instruments, scores and documents from the interwar period. Small but well explained.
• Khurshidbanu Natavan Palace Residence of the last princess of the Khanate of Karabakh, now a museum with 19th-century furniture and personal objects. Useful context for understanding the city's history.
• Shusha Gorges The deep forested canyons encircling the city allow short walks among beeches and oaks with views over the walls and minarets. Cool even in July.
• Neighbourhoods under reconstruction The still-unrehabilitated areas — including parts of the old Armenian quarter with the Ghazanchetsots Cathedral visible from outside — offer the most honest perspective on the weight of recent decades.

Photo gallery

Shusha is about 300 km from Baku via the motorway through Goranboy and Agdam. There are regular flights from Baku to Fuzuli Airport (about 50 km away), and direct buses taking approximately 5–6 hours. Access may require special permits depending on the area and current situation; it is advisable to check requirements with Azerbaijani authorities or through your tour operator before travelling.

Shusha's altitude makes it pleasant in summer: while Baku exceeds 35 °C, temperatures here rarely go above 26–28 °C. Spring (May–June) and autumn (September–October) are the most comfortable periods, with clear light and greenery in the gorges. In winter it can snow and mountain roads become difficult. As the city is still under active reconstruction, some attractions may be temporarily closed; best to confirm before visiting.