Shamkir

Shamkir spreads through the valley of the Shamkir River, on the plain that opens between the last spurs of the Lesser Caucasus and the course of the Kura. Arriving on the motorway from Baku or Ganja, the town announces nothing special: Soviet-era apartment blocks, a central square with fountains and a few trees, a new mosque with a blue dome. But those who come for the history or the wine arrive already knowing what is there.

The area around Shamkir has been vineyard-growing territory for centuries, and in recent years several wineries have started producing wines with their own designation. The sandy-clay soil of the Shamkir valley and the day-to-night temperature difference favour white varieties such as Rkatsiteli and Pinot Gris. Visits are possible by prior appointment; there is no infrastructure for spontaneous wine tourism, so it is necessary to write or call several days in advance.

North of the town, on a hillock, stand the remains of the medieval Shamkir castle: half-crumbling fired-brick walls, an open view over the valley and almost no signage. Access is free and the surroundings are quiet. It is the kind of ruin you visit without anyone charging or explaining anything, which has its charm and its frustration in equal measure. Bring water if you go in summer; the climb is short but the sun hits hard on the hillock.

Medieval Shamkir was an important commercial hub on the route linking the Caucasus with Persia and Byzantium. The most remembered battle occurred in 1195, when the Georgian king David Soslan defeated Sultan Abu Bakr near here — one of the most significant military clashes in the medieval Caucasus, which consolidated the hegemony of the Kingdom of Georgia in the region for decades. Later, Shamkir formed part of the Khanate of Ganja. In the twentieth century, the construction of the Shamkir reservoir on the Kura River during the Soviet era transformed the surrounding landscape and flooded areas of traditional farmland and pasture.

• Medieval Shamkir castle Fired-brick walls on a hillock north of town; unrestored and unsignposted, but with a clear view of the Shamkir valley that justifies the fifteen-minute walk from the road.
• Shamkir reservoir The large artificial lake on the Kura River, a few kilometres to the south, is a fishing and leisure spot for locals. On summer evenings the bank fills with families at folding tables and mangal grills.
• Valley vineyards The plantations along the Shamkir River form a constant backdrop. In September, during the harvest, the paths between the vines smell of must and tractors go laden with Rkatsiteli grapes.
• Shamkir central market It has the scale of a provincial town: seasonal fruits, bulk spices, clothing and a few craft stalls with no tourist pretensions. Mornings are when there is most activity.
• Local wineries Some producers in the Shamkir valley receive visitors by appointment. It is the most direct way to understand the relationship between soil, climate and wine in this part of the Caucasus.

Photo gallery

Shamkir is about 280 km from Baku on the westbound M1 motorway, approximately 3 hours by car. From Ganja it is only 45 km and under 40 minutes. There are direct trains from Baku stopping at Shamkir in around 4 hours, and buses from Baku's central bus station. To get around the surroundings — vineyards, reservoir, castle — it is best to have your own car or negotiate an hourly local taxi.

Spring — April and May — is the most comfortable time: between 15 and 23 degrees, the vineyards of the Shamkir valley in bud and the river with a good flow. Summer is dry and hot, with highs of 35–38 degrees in July; the Shamkir reservoir offers some relief. September, with the harvest, gives the landscape a special character. In winter the attractions are accessible but the atmosphere is grey and cold.