Racha

Racha is one of the regions of Georgia that rarely appears in standard itineraries, and that shows as soon as you arrive: the villages are small, the roads narrow and winding, and in summer there is more livestock than cars on some stretches. The upper valley of the Rioni river is flanked by dense beech and oak forests that smell of damp moss even in the height of August. The villages are scattered across the hillsides with houses of wood darkened by time, some with barnyards opening directly onto the road.

What makes Racha especially well known among Georgians is its wine. The Khvanchkara grape produces a semi-sweet red with its own designation of origin, sold directly by local producers without flashy labels or intermediaries, at prices around 10-15 GEL (3-4 EUR) a bottle. The taste is round, with a natural sweetness unlike any other wine in the country. They say — and Georgians tell it with a certain pride — that it was Stalin's favourite wine.

Ambrolauri, the regional capital, is the most practical base: there are small hotels from around 80-120 GEL a night (20-30 EUR) and restaurants cooking with local products such as aged goat's cheese or mchadi cornbread. From here the routes fan out to medieval churches, the Khvanchkara vineyards and the most remote villages of the upper valley.

Racha was during the Middle Ages a semi-autonomous principality within the kingdom of Georgia, with its own feudal lords and a distinct cultural identity. Its inaccessible geography — deep valleys enclosed by mountains — made it a refuge during the successive Persian, Mongol and Ottoman invasions that ravaged the flatter regions. The churches that survive from that period, some from the tenth and eleventh centuries like the cathedral of Nikortsminda, show a local architectural style with sober but highly precise relief decoration. During the Soviet era Racha was left out of major industrial projects, which preserved its rural character, though emigration to Tbilisi has left several villages almost empty in recent decades.

• Nikortsminda Cathedral Eleventh-century church about 18 km from Ambrolauri. The stone bas-reliefs on the exterior façade are considered among the finest of medieval Georgian art: biblical scenes, plant motifs and figures of saints carved with a precision remarkable for the period. Free entry.
• Khvanchkara vineyards and wineries Local producers in the village of Khvanchkara, about 10 km from Ambrolauri, sell directly from their homes. The semi-sweet Khvanchkara red is the most representative, but they also make dry wines. Approximate prices: 10-20 GEL a bottle (3-5 EUR).
• Barakoni Church Smaller and less well known than Nikortsminda, surrounded by dense forest near the village of Oni. The silence of the surroundings and the absence of tourist signage make it particularly authentic.
• Village of Shovi Small Soviet spa in the upper Rioni valley, about 70 km from Ambrolauri. The alpine landscape is remarkable although the facilities are basic. The access road requires a vehicle with adequate ground clearance.
• Chiora Waterfall Accessible on foot from the main valley road, with a trail of about 20 minutes through dense forest. The water is cold even in August.

Galería de fotos

From Tbilisi, direct marshrutkas to Ambrolauri leave from Didube station; the journey takes between 4 and 5 hours along the road that climbs through Surami and enters the Rioni valley. The route is winding and can cause motion sickness. There is no train. By private car the access is more flexible and allows stops in villages along the way; the upper valley stretches require a vehicle with adequate ground clearance.

From June to September the mountain passes are open and the forest is at its greenest and densest. July and August are warm on the valley floor (25-28°C) with cool nights. The September-October harvest coincides with the best autumn colours in Racha. Winter closes many access routes and reduces services considerably. In spring there can be snow in the higher villages well into May.