Vashlovani National Park

Vashlovani National Park is the quietest and least-visited corner of Georgia. It lies in the far southeast of the country, in the Kakheti region, right where the land flattens and dries out before reaching the border with Azerbaijan. Nothing here recalls the alpine Georgia of the north: the hills are grey and yellow clay, the air smells of fine dust and juniper, and the only sounds are the wind and, if you are lucky, the cry of a griffon vulture over the ravines.

The Alazani badlands are the geological heart of the park. These are formations of eroded terrain — gullies, columns, gorges — that shift colour throughout the day: ochre at midday, deep orange as the afternoon fades. They are reached by four-wheel drive from the Dedoplistskaro visitor centre, where park rangers organise guided routes. Entry to the park requires prior registration and costs around 5 GEL per person (under 2 EUR); guided 4x4 excursions run between 80 and 120 GEL depending on the route.

Wildlife does not reveal itself easily, but it is there. The Caucasian leopard leaves traces on the park's camera traps; the golden jackal can often be heard at dawn. In spring reptiles are very active and it is wise to watch where you step, especially near flat rocks. The pistachio forest — one of the few natural ones in the Caucasus — deserves a slow visit: in autumn the trees turn red and the fruits fall to the ground with a dry thud.

The territory now occupied by Vashlovani National Park was used for transhumant grazing and hunting for centuries, inhabited by communities of the Caucasian plain before being incorporated into the medieval kingdom of Kakheti. Extensive livestock farming shaped much of the steppe that can still be seen today. During the Soviet era, the authorities established a strict nature reserve in the 1940s to protect the semi-arid ecosystems, considered the only ones of their kind within Georgian borders. In 2003 the reserve was expanded and transformed into the current national park under the management of the Protected Areas Agency of Georgia. Coordination with Azerbaijan over the Alazani River basin remains an unresolved challenge affecting the transboundary conservation of the ecosystem.

• Alazani Badlands The eroded clay formations along the Alazani River are the park's most striking feature: gullies, columns and gorges that shift from ochre to orange depending on the time of day. Accessible by 4x4 only.
• Pistachio forest One of the few natural pistachio forests in the Caucasus. In autumn the trees turn red and the fruits fall to the ground; in spring the understorey is a surprising green for such an arid zone.
• Mud volcanoes In the northern part of the park there are small active mud volcanoes — gryazevye vulkany in regional terminology — an uncommon geological phenomenon in the area that is worth a visit if the guide includes it in the itinerary.
• Birdwatching Vashlovani National Park is home to more than 90 breeding species. Griffon vultures, eastern imperial eagles and common kestrels are the most visible; during migration the variety increases considerably.
• 4x4 steppe route The Dedoplistskaro visitor centre organises half-day and full-day trips along the park's tracks. Without a four-wheel drive it is not possible to reach the more remote areas; booking ahead is advisable in high season.

Photo gallery

The access base is Dedoplistskaro, about 230 km east of Tbilisi via the M7 highway towards Signagi and then south. From Tbilisi Bus Station (Ortachala), marshrutkas run to Dedoplistskaro several times a day (around 4 hours, approx. 10 GEL). The park visitor centre is on the outskirts of the town and is the mandatory starting point for registering and hiring a guide with a 4x4.

The best time to visit is spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October). In spring the steppe briefly turns green, wildlife is more active and reptiles come out to bask. In autumn the pistachio forest turns red and the heat is bearable. Summer is very dry and temperatures exceed 40 °C in July and August, making walking routes inadvisable. In winter the dirt tracks can become impassable after rain.