Nokalakevi (Archaeopolis)

Nokalakevi appears from the road before you arrive: a dark rock promontory above the Tekhuri River with wall fragments visible through the vegetation. Access is via an unpaved track that crosses a small wooden bridge; on the other side the sound of water drops below and the temperature falls a few degrees in the shade of the trees covering the site's slopes.

The site is not overcrowded with visitors and there are no cafés at the entrance. There is a site museum with excavated pieces — ceramics, coins, mortar fragments — attended by one or two people, and then the open enclosure where you walk the remains of several centuries of occupation. The Cyclopean walls in the upper section reach six metres in height in some stretches; the stone is covered in moss and ferns grow in the gaps. The smell of damp earth and leaf litter accompanies the whole visit.

What surprises is the scale: the enclosure covers several hectares and combines layers from different periods without clear signage separating one from another. Allow at least two hours, bring water as there are no springs inside, and wear firm-soled footwear for the loose-stone sections. Entry costs around 3 GEL (under €1). The site is open every day, though museum hours may vary by season; it is advisable to call ahead if travelling specifically from far away.

Nokalakevi was the capital of the Egrisi kingdom, known in Byzantine sources as Lazikon, between the 4th and 8th centuries. The Romans called it Archaeopolis and contested it with the Sassanid Persians during the so-called Lazic War in the mid-6th century; the city withstood several sieges partly thanks to its river tunnel, which guaranteed the water supply to the interior of the fortress. An Arab raid in the 8th century caused its partial destruction and the final decline of the settlement. Systematic excavations began during the Soviet era and continue intermittently; a significant part of the site remains unexcavated, making Nokalakevi an actively ongoing archaeological site.

• Cyclopean walls The best-preserved sections date from the 4th–6th centuries and combine large blocks with later infill; in some points they reach six metres in height and clearly show the different construction phases.
• Church of the Three Saints Ruins of a 6th-century three-nave basilica with part of the apse still standing. On the ground around the church lie carved capitals that have fallen from their columns.
• River tunnel An underground passage cut through the rock that connected the citadel to the Tekhuri River to secure water supply during sieges. One of the most distinctive elements of the whole complex.
• Site museum Small and well-organised, with local and imported ceramics, weapons, jewellery and Roman and Byzantine coins recovered during excavations. The collection contextualises what you see afterwards walking the enclosure.
• Upper enclosure and tower The highest part of the promontory offers views over the Tekhuri valley and the forests of Samegrelo. The ascent requires care as the path has uneven sections.

Photo gallery

Nokalakevi is about 10 km from Senaki, the nearest town with a railway station. From Senaki taxis cover the route for around 15–20 GEL. From Kutaisi, about 60 km away, you can hire a taxi for the day; the journey takes approximately one hour. There is no direct public transport to the site. Travellers from Tbilisi can combine the train to Senaki with a local taxi.

From May to June the Tekhuri valley is green and temperatures range from 18–26 °C, though it can rain. July and August are humid and hot, with active insects in the forest. September offers the best combination: less rain, dense vegetation and long afternoon light. In winter the access to the upper enclosure of Nokalakevi can become slippery due to mud; the rest of the site is still visitable.