Nekresi Monastery

Nekresi Monastery looks out over the Alazan Valley from an oak- and beech-covered hillside in the heart of Kakheti. To get there you must leave the car at the signposted car park at the foot of the hill and walk about 2.5 kilometres along a forest track with nearly 400 metres of elevation gain. On foot the ascent takes between 40 and 60 minutes; in high season shared jeeps run for a few lari. As you climb through the trees the temperature drops several degrees and the noise from the valley floor gradually fades.

The complex appears suddenly on leaving the forest: several dark stone buildings constructed in different periods, with no exterior ornamentation, with a solidity that seems to have grown straight from the rock. The oldest structure is a small basilica from the 4th century, one of the earliest churches in all of Georgia. Next to it stand the Church of the Dormition from the 8th century, a medieval refectory, a mortuary chapel and a watchtower. The complex is still active: there are resident monks and the silence inside the grounds is genuine.

The views from the edge of the grounds over the Alazan Valley are the other reason to make the climb: on clear days the vineyards of Kakheti stretch as far as the eye can see, with the peaks of the Greater Caucasus closing the horizon to the north. The early morning light is most favourable for photographing the complex and for avoiding the organised groups that arrive from Tbilisi mid-morning.

Nekresi Monastery is one of the oldest monastic centres in Georgia. Tradition attributes its foundation in the 4th century to Abibos of Nekresi, one of the so-called Thirteen Syrian Fathers who spread Christianity throughout the Caucasus. Over the centuries the complex suffered attacks from the Sassanid Persians and later from Arab troops, who destroyed or damaged several of its structures. The surviving churches correspond mainly to the 4th and 8th centuries, with restoration work in the medieval period and again during the 20th century. Despite the destruction the site never entirely lost its religious function and today is once again home to an active monastic community.

• 4th-century basilica The oldest structure in Nekresi Monastery: small, of undressed stone, with the original floor of irregular flagstones. The austerity of the interior says more about the first centuries of Georgian Christianity than any explanation could.
• Church of the Dormition From the 8th century, noticeably larger than the basilica. It retains traces of deteriorated medieval frescoes on the interior walls, visible in the light entering through the side windows.
• Mortuary chapel and refectory Two of the medieval buildings in the complex that complete the picture of Nekresi Monastery as a self-sufficient community, not merely a place of worship.
• Watchtower Allows you to climb several storeys and gain a perspective over the surrounding forest and the Alazan Valley. Access may be restricted depending on the season.
• Views of the Alazan Valley From the edge of the grounds you look out over the wine-growing plain of Kakheti with the Greater Caucasus mountains in the background. In autumn the vineyards add colour to the landscape.
• Forest access trail The path through oaks and beeches is part of the visit: in autumn the leaf colour transforms the climb, and at any time of year the temperature contrast with the valley floor is striking.

Photo gallery

Nekresi Monastery is about 18 km from Telavi, the capital of Kakheti, and about 15 km from the village of Gremi. From Telavi take the road towards Kvareli and follow the signs to the car park at the foot of the hill. There is no direct public transport; the usual approach is to hire a taxi from Telavi or rent a car. From Tbilisi the journey takes approximately two hours via the Kakheti highway.

May-June and September-October are the best months to visit Nekresi Monastery: the forest is at its finest, the temperature is pleasant and the views of the Alazan Valley are usually clear. In July and August the heat of the valley floor contrasts with the coolness of the grounds, but there are more visitors. In winter the access track can become impassable with snow and the surroundings lose some of their seasonal appeal.