Mtirala National Park

The name Mtirala means «the one that cries» in Georgian, and that is no exaggeration: this corner of Adjara receives between 2,500 and 4,500 millimetres of rain a year, turning the forest into something akin to a temperate rainforest. On entering through the village of Chakvistavi, the air changes immediately: it smells of wet earth and decaying leaves, and the light comes filtered through overlapping layers of foliage that make it almost impossible to see the sky.

The park's trails are well marked and there are two main routes: a short two-hour walk to the main waterfall, and a longer one that climbs to the ridge and offers views of the Black Sea on clear days. The ground is always damp and soft; hiking boots with a non-slip sole are essential because the wooden boards on some sections of the path can be covered in algae. In summer there are mosquitoes, especially near the Chakvistskali river.

There is accommodation in rural guesthouses in Chakvistavi and the park itself has a few basic cabins managed by the administration. There are no restaurants inside the park, so bring food. Access is from Chakvi, on the coastal road between Batumi and Kobuleti. Park entry is free; rangers are usually at the Chakvistavi post.

Mtirala National Park was declared a national park in 2006, although the area had enjoyed some protection since the Soviet era due to its botanical interest. The Colchic forest covering its slopes is one of the most representative of the humid Caucasus: a mix of oaks, beeches, horse chestnuts and rhododendrons that in some stretches form an understorey so dense it is barely possible to move off the trails. Fauna includes brown bears, though sightings are rare and park rangers recommend making noise when walking to avoid encounters. The park's name evokes the constant weeping of the rain that shapes this singular ecosystem in the western Caucasus.

• Main waterfall About 5 km from the entrance; the trail to it is the most frequented and well signposted. The drop is around 20 metres and you hear it before you see it.
• Colchic forest The forest's texture itself is the main attraction: moss-covered trees, ferns on the ground, filtered light and relative silence. Some trunks reach dimensions unusual in Europe.
• Ridge route A more demanding trail that climbs to about 1,200 metres and allows views of the Black Sea on clear days. Requires appropriate footwear and around five hours round trip.
• Chakvistavi village The park entry point; small wooden houses with vegetable gardens and chickens. Local guides can be hired here and there is accommodation in rural guesthouses.
• Chakvistskali river The river running through the park; its banks, with pools and moss-covered stones, are good rest spots between uphill stretches.

The park is about 15 km northeast of Batumi. From Batumi you take a marshrutka to Chakvi (from the bus station, about 20 minutes) and from there a taxi to Chakvistavi, another 8 km along a forest road. In high season there may be taxis waiting in Chakvi; off-season it is worth calling ahead. From Batumi you can also hire a taxi directly for around 30–40 lari (~10–14 €).

The park is open year-round but the best time is May–June — deep green, waterfalls at full flow — and September–October — less rain, autumn colours. July and August have more visitors and humid heat. Winter is rainy and cold; trails become difficult with mud. Rain can appear at any time without warning: a waterproof jacket is essential even when the sun is out.