Narikala Fortress

Narikala Fortress occupies the rocky promontory that dominates the old town of Tbilisi from the south. You can get there on foot from the Abanotubani neighbourhood — about twenty minutes up a steep slope between whitewashed walls and sleeping cats — or by the cable car from Rike Park. The walk up is worth it: the views over the rooftops and domes of the old quarter open gradually, and the smell of sulphur from the thermal baths drifts up from below, reminding you that you are above Abanotubani.

The walls are partly in ruins, which paradoxically gives them more character than if they were fully restored. Blocks of black volcanic toba alternate with patches of brick from different periods, and in several places you can peer into the interior of the towers. Inside the compound there is a Church of St Nicholas, rebuilt in the 1990s after the damage from the 1827 earthquake; the interior is simple, with filtered light and relative quiet compared to the bustle of the walls outside.

The view from the top is the main reason to visit. To the north you can see the old town with its carved wooden balconies, the domes of the sulphur baths and the Mtkvari River; to the south, the Isani district and the towers of modern Tbilisi. At sunset, when the light falls sideways across the rooftops, the north side is the most photogenic. Entry to the compound is free and the fortress never closes, so it can also be visited at night.

The earliest defences on the Narikala promontory date back to the 4th or 5th century, when the Sasanian Persians built a control post above the settlement that would later become Tbilisi. Over the centuries, Arabs, Mongols and Safavid Persians expanded and modified the walls, each occupation leaving its visible layer in the stratigraphy of the stonework. The Ottomans used the fortress in the 17th century and the Russians kept it operational until the 19th century. The earthquake of 1827 and the subsequent explosion of a powder magazine inside the compound caused the damage visible today in the southern sector, which was never fully repaired.

• North walls The best-preserved section of the entire compound; you can walk along the parapet and see Tbilisi from several different angles throughout the route.
• Church of St Nicholas Rebuilt in the 1990s; the interior is austere and quiet, a good counterpoint to the noise outside on the walls.
• South viewpoint Views over the Isani district and the modern towers of Tbilisi; the contrast with the historic views from the north side is striking and worth pausing for.
• Ruined towers The destroyed sections of the south sector have their own appeal: you can explore the interior of some towers and observe the layering of materials from different periods in the walls.
• Night view from the walls Narikala Fortress never closes to the public; at night, with the lights of Tbilisi switched on and fewer people around, the experience is quite different from a daytime visit.

Photo gallery

Narikala Fortress can be reached on foot from the Abanotubani neighbourhood in about twenty minutes of uphill walking, by cable car from Rike Park (about 2.5 lari, roughly 1 USD, in five minutes), or by the road that climbs from Rose Revolution Avenue. Entry to the compound is free. The nearest metro station is Avlabari, about ten minutes on foot.

Narikala Fortress can be visited year-round. Spring and autumn offer pleasant temperatures for walking along the walls. In summer it is hot, though the altitude mitigates the heat somewhat; bring water. In winter the rock can be frozen and slippery in places. Sunset is the most crowded time in tourist season; for those who prefer quiet, early morning or night-time are better options.