Nabran

Nabran is the beach Baku residents head to when summer arrives. A strip of pale sand borders the Caspian Sea for several kilometres, and what sets Nabran apart from any other coastal resort is the pine forest that reaches almost to the water's edge: there is shade between the trunks, the ground smells of hot resin, and in the background you can hear the water. The Caspian is saltier than a lake but less so than the ocean; the waves are small, there are no appreciable tides, and the water in high summer reaches 24-26 degrees. Suitable for children without question.

The architecture mixes Soviet-era rest blocks —some refurbished, others showing their age with a certain dignity— with newer bungalows and the odd higher-category hotel in the central beach area. In July and August the restaurants with terraces over the water serve grilled kutum and bream: Caspian fish that cannot be found anywhere else. The atmosphere is family-oriented, pleasantly lively, with no pretensions to sophistication.

Out of season, between October and May, Nabran changes its face: several hotels close, the beach bars pull their shutters down and the beach is left to a handful of visitors. The pine forest in that quiet has its own character. Accommodation prices drop considerably. Nabran is not a cultural or historical destination —there are no museums or monuments to visit— but a place to switch off, eat fresh fish and spend time in the water.

The coastal strip of northern Azerbaijan, between the Samur river and the Guba-Khachmaz region, was for centuries a transit corridor between the Caucasus and the northern steppes. The development of Nabran as a resort began in the Soviet era, when the first complexes were built for industrial workers from Baku and other cities. The pine forest that today characterises the area was largely planted during that period: a functional reforestation to fix the coastal dunes and provide shade for summer visitors. After Azerbaijani independence in 1991, private investment transformed some of these complexes into more modern hotels, though the Soviet imprint remains visible in the layout and architecture of many establishments.

• Caspian beach Fine pale sand and calm water with no appreciable tides. The waves are small and the seabed is gentle, making it comfortable for children. The main beach strip stretches in front of the central Nabran area.
• Coastal pine forest The most distinctive feature of Nabran: pine trees growing a few metres from the water, creating a shaded walk with the scent of resin. You can walk for several kilometres between the trees and the shoreline.
• Caspian fish restaurants Waterfront restaurants with terraces serve grilled kutum, bream and other Caspian fish. The busiest are in the central beach area; in high season it is worth arriving before 13:00 to find a table.
• Seasonal water activities Between June and August there are pedalo, jet-ski and sunbed rentals in the areas in front of the main hotels. What is available varies from one establishment to another.
• Day trip to Quba The town of Quba, about 60 km south, has a lively bazaar, the Djuma mosque and the historic neighbourhood of Krasnaya Sloboda —an old mountain Jewish community. It is the natural cultural complement to a trip to Nabran.
• Samur river border The Samur river, a few kilometres to the north, marks the border with Russia. The area has checkpoints and crossing is not possible; from the bank you can see the other side of the northern Caucasus.

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Nabran is about 220 km north of Baku on the M2 motorway, which is in good condition throughout. From Baku's bus station, buses and marshrutkas run to Nabran and Quba; the journey takes between 3 and 4 hours. In high season there are frequent departures throughout the morning. The town of Quba, 60 km south of Nabran, serves as a midway stop if you want to break the journey.

The beach season runs from June to September. July and August are the busiest months: water temperatures reach 24-26 degrees and the heat is dry and steady. June and September offer fewer crowds and a quieter atmosphere with still-pleasant temperatures. Out of season most hotels and restaurants close; winter in Nabran can be cold with northerly winds. Spring is fine for walking through the pine forest, though the water is still too cold for swimming.