Ikalto Monastery

Ikalto Monastery lies about eight kilometres west of Telavi, in the heart of the Kakheti wine region. The access road is unpaved, passing between vineyards and orchards; in the final stretch the shade of old oak trees begins to appear before you reach the stone gate of the complex. The first thing you notice on entering is the silence: the monastery does not attract the continuous stream of visitors that other Kakheti complexes do, and on weekdays it is possible to be alone for quite some time.

The complex is compact but varied: three churches from different periods — the main one from the 6th century, two of them with partially preserved frescoes —, the ruins of the medieval academy and several stone kvevri jars buried in the ground, used to ferment wine since time immemorial. The kvevri are not decorative: this monastery still makes wine, and in September the smell of must is noticeable throughout the grounds.

Local guides always mention that Shota Rustaveli, the author of The Knight in the Panther's Skin, studied at the Ikalto academy. That is oral tradition; what remains in tangible form are the ruins of the academy — low stone walls, the outline of a plan that Georgian archaeologists have identified as a school and library. Entry is free and the grounds are always open.

The Ikalto Academy was founded in the 12th century by the monk and philosopher Arsen Ikaltoeli, a disciple of the Gelati Academy in Kutaisi. It was one of the most active centres for translating and copying manuscripts in the medieval Caucasus, working on Greek, Arabic and Persian philosophical texts. The monastery itself dates to the 6th century, during the reign of King Parsman VI. Persian invaders destroyed the academy in the 16th century; since then it has functioned as an active monastic community but without recovering its original intellectual role. The complex was partially restored during the Soviet period.

• Sioni Church The main church of the complex, from the 6th century, with partially preserved medieval frescoes on the walls of the sanctuary and a dark stone interior that filters light through narrow windows.
• Ruins of the medieval academy The outline of the walls and floor plan are visible; explanatory panels tell the history of the school. It is the most evocative element of the complex for those interested in the intellectual history of the Caucasus.
• Buried kvevri jars Several large kvevri jars are visible between the churches; some are still used for winemaking. In September you can observe the filling process.
• Ertatsminда Church A small 10th-century structure with a stone bell tower rising above the treetops. The interior is austere and is generally open.
• Surrounding vineyards The access road passes through plots of local grape varieties. In October the harvest is still under way and farmers are usually in the fields.

Ikalto Monastery is about 8 km west of Telavi, the main town in Kakheti. From Telavi taxis make the journey for around 10–15 lari. You can also hire a car in Telavi or Tbilisi and drive the unpaved road. From Tbilisi the distance is approximately 150 km, about two and a half hours by car along the Kakheti road. It is common to combine the visit with Shuakhevi Monastery and the Nekresi Complex in the same day.

Spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October) are the best times: temperatures in Kakheti are around 18–26 °C and the vines are either in flower or at harvest. In September the atmosphere is especially interesting as it coincides with the rtveli (Georgian grape harvest). Summer is hot and dry; the church interiors stay cool. Winter is cold but accessible; the unpaved road can become difficult in heavy rain or snow.