Martvili Canyon

Martvili Canyon is in the Samegrelo region of western Georgia, carved over thousands of years by the Abasha river into dark grey limestone. The contrast between the rock and the water — an almost unreal turquoise caused by dissolved minerals in suspension — is the first thing that catches your eye when you look over the edge. The light filtering through the canyon's slot changes angle depending on the time of day, and that changes the water's tone too: greener at midday, bluer early in the morning.

The visit is divided into two sections. The first is an upper walkway with metal railings that follows the edge of the canyon and offers direct views over the water and several side waterfalls dropping into the Abasha river from the walls. The second section — the one that generates the most queuing — is the rowing boat trip through the narrowest stretch: the guide rows in silence, the walls close to within centimetres and the echo of the water changes tone with the depth. It lasts about 20–30 minutes and is paid separately (around 10 lari per person, approximately €3–4).

Entry to Martvili Nature Park costs around 7 lari. The site is generally open 10:00–18:00, with seasonal variations. On July and August weekends the queue for the boat can exceed an hour; arriving before 10:00 makes a real difference. The car park fills up fast in August. There are no restaurants inside the park, but near the entrance there are usually stalls selling water and snacks.

Martvili Canyon has no monumental history of its own, but the context of the place is richer than it appears. The limestone forming the canyon walls has been eroding for thousands of years under the action of the Abasha river; in some stretches the rock stratification is visible to the naked eye, and water-formed cavities are still growing. The nature park protecting the area was established in the 1940s. A few kilometres away, Martvili Cathedral dates from the 7th century and was one of the religious centres of the ancient kingdom of Egrisi, the region the Greeks called Colchis. The cathedral's medieval walls preserve restorations from different periods.

• Boat ride The narrowest stretch of Martvili Canyon is explored by rowing boat: the limestone walls come within centimetres and the turquoise water of the Abasha river reflects the light coming from above. Lasts 20–30 minutes; paid separately from the entrance fee.
• Upper walkway The footpath runs along the edge of the canyon with metal railings and several viewpoints. From here you see the side waterfalls and the contrast between the grey limestone and the blue-green water.
• Side waterfalls Several waterfalls fall directly into the Abasha river along the route. The most voluminous are visible in spring and early summer; in a dry August some reduce to a trickle.
• Colour of the Abasha water The turquoise of the Abasha river in the deeper stretches varies with the light and turbidity. Early in the morning, when there are fewer visitors and the light enters at an oblique angle, the colour is most intense.
• Martvili Cathedral A few kilometres from the canyon, this 7th-century cathedral preserves medieval murals and a tranquil courtyard. It combines well with a visit to Martvili Nature Park and adds little time to the itinerary.

Photo gallery

Martvili Canyon is about 55 km east of Zugdidi and around 320 km from Tbilisi. From Zugdidi there are marshrutkas and taxis to Martvili (40–50 minutes). From Tbilisi you can take the train to Zugdidi (about 5 hours) and continue by taxi. By car from Kutaisi it is approximately 2 hours. Many travellers combine it with Kolkheti National Park or add Mestia on a western Georgia circuit.

Spring (April–June) is the best time: the side waterfalls of Martvili Canyon carry more water and there are fewer people. Autumn (September–October) also works well: pleasant temperatures, the Abasha river at a good level and short queues for the boat. Summer (July–August) is high season with long weekend waits; arriving before 10:00 helps. In winter boat access may be restricted.