Kolkheti National Park

Kolkheti National Park protects a strip of coastal wetlands in western Georgia where the Black Sea, rivers and peat bogs form an ecosystem unlike anything else in the Caucasus. When you reach the viewpoints over Lake Paliastomi, what first catches your attention is not the landscape but the silence: still dark water, moss-laden alders, and the deep call of a cormorant somewhere in the distance. Nothing like the mountains that dominate the rest of Georgia.

The park is, above all, a migratory corridor. Between October and March, Dalmatian pelicans, grey herons, spoonbills and dozens of duck species use the Kolkheti lagoons as a stopover on the Caspian Sea flyway. Birdwatchers have long marked this site as a reference, but you don't need binoculars to enjoy the boat trips through the interior canals, where vegetation closes over the water and the light changes with every bend.

The infrastructure is deliberately basic: the Poti visitor centre organises outings and provides contacts with boat guides, but don't expect abundant signage or comfort facilities. Mosquitoes are a real problem between May and August, especially near the marshy areas, so repellent is part of the kit, not an optional extra. Waterproof footwear also saves trouble on the wetter trails.

This territory was the legendary Colchis of Greek mythology: according to tradition, this is where Jason and the Argonauts came in search of the Golden Fleece, sailing up the Rioni River — the ancient Phasis — into the interior of the Caucasus. The Kolkheti wetlands are considered relicts of Tertiary subtropical flora: they preserve plants and plant communities that disappeared from the rest of Europe millions of years ago, isolated here by geography. In 2023, the site was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as part of the Colchic Rainforests and Wetlands ensemble, which also includes the forests of Svaneti and other enclaves on the Georgian western coast.

• Lake Paliastomi The park's largest lagoon, connected to the Black Sea and the Rioni River. It is explored by boat from Poti; at dawn, when mist settles over the water, the most birds can be seen moving through the reed beds.
• Peat bogs and alder forest Some trails allow you to approach these ecosystems — extremely rare in Europe — on foot. The ground sponges underfoot and wild bamboo forms dense walls on either side of the path; waterproof footwear essential.
• Interior canals of Kolkheti A network of navigable channels linking the lagoons. Exploring them by boat with a local guide is the most direct way to grasp the scale of the park; the dark water and tree reflections make it something quite different from a conventional tourist excursion.
• Poti visitor centre The logical starting point for organising any excursion. They provide information on routes, contacts with boat guides and current trail conditions by season. Located in the city of Poti, a few minutes from the port.
• Black Sea coast beside the park The western boundary of the park adjoins almost deserted beaches where the channels meet the sea. Reachable on foot from Poti, they provide an immediate contrast with the dense vegetation of the interior.

Photo gallery

The main access is from Poti, a port city on the western coast of Georgia. From Tbilisi there is a direct train to Poti (about 6–7 hours) or a marshrutka via Kutaisi. From Batumi it is about 100 km north along the coastal road (N2), approximately 1.5 hours by car. Inside the park, transport is by boat or on foot; it is worth contacting the Poti visitor centre before arriving to arrange a guide and boat.

Spring (April–May) is the best time: migratory birds are active and the vegetation is at its densest, though the ground can be very waterlogged. Autumn (September–October) also brings a good volume of passage birds. Summer is hot and humid with abundant mosquitoes near the water. In winter it rains frequently and some trails become flooded, although temperatures rarely drop below zero on the coast.