Khevsureti

Khevsureti begins where the road from Tbilisi stops being a road and turns into a dirt track, with the Aragvi river running below on the right. Past the village of Barisakho, the landscape changes abruptly: the valleys narrow, the slopes fill with rhododendrons and villages cling to the rocks as if someone had placed them there so no one would find them. The air smells of wet grass and the wood from log-burning kitchens. In the middle hours of the day the only sound breaking the silence is water running between stones.

The region is known for its medieval defence towers and for the traditional dress of the Khevsurs, who embroidered crosses on their sleeves and chests in a style that has intrigued ethnologists for decades. Many villages, like Mutso or Anatori, are semi-abandoned: their inhabitants moved to Tbilisi during the twentieth century and the stone houses stand empty nine months of the year. In summer some return, shepherds bring up their herds and hikers appear with their backpacks and trekking poles.

Getting there is not easy: the track from Barisakho to Shatili, the most visited village, has stretches that require four-wheel-drive vehicles. There are a few basic guesthouses in Shatili and Roshka, but infrastructure is minimal. Bringing extra food for several days, a torch and warm clothing for the nights — which in August can drop below 6 degrees — is prudent, not optional.

The Khevsurs are a Georgian ethnic subgroup who inhabited these mountains for centuries in relative isolation, which explains the preservation of their own customs and a dialect distinct from standard Georgian. The towers of Shatili and Mutso were built between the 9th and 13th centuries as defence against incursions from the north through the Greater Caucasus. The region was never completely conquered by the Persian or Ottoman empires, partly due to the inaccessibility of the terrain. The forced evacuation of villages during the Soviet era depopulated much of the territory. Today UNESCO and various Georgian organisations work on preserving the structures of Shatili and documenting the intangible Khevsur heritage.

• Shatili fortress-village Complex of towers and stone houses from the 9th–13th centuries on the banks of the Argun river. In summer, some restored buildings serve as basic accommodation. It is the usual starting point for visiting the rest of the region.
• Mutso Ruined village at around 2,000 metres altitude, with towers in varying states of preservation. The walk from Shatili takes between 4 and 5 hours along a mountain path; worth the effort for the views over the Mutso-Argun gorge.
• Shatili-Juta trekking route Multi-day traverse crossing the Atsunta Pass (3,431 m) linking Khevsureti with the Kazbegi region. One of Georgia's most demanding and least-frequented routes; requires high-altitude experience and stable weather conditions.
• Local shrines (khati) The Khevsurs maintain shrines of pagan-Christian tradition where rituals blend elements of both traditions. Some are open to visitors with a local guide; the access rules indicated by the dekanozi (shrine keeper) must be respected.
• Datvisjvari Pass The mountain pass giving access to the region from the south at 2,676 metres. Usually closed by snow between November and May; from the top, on clear days, the view over the valleys descending toward the Zhinvali reservoir rewards the hour-long climb.

Photo gallery

From Tbilisi there are marshrutkas to Barisakho (about 3–4 hours), from where you need a four-wheel-drive to continue to Shatili. Several operators in Tbilisi organise 2–3 day 4×4 excursions. The main access road passes through Mtskheta and the Zhinvali reservoir. In summer it is also possible to arrive on foot from Kazbegi by crossing the Atsunta Pass, but that route takes several days of hiking and requires mountain experience.

The visiting window is narrow: mid-June to late September. The Datvisjvari Pass closes with snow in autumn and does not reopen until late May or June depending on the year. July and August are the busiest months; daytime temperatures hover around 15–22 °C, but nights at altitude drop to 5–8 °C even in midsummer. At the edges of the season, May and October, rain and mud can make the tracks impassable even with a 4×4.