Karabakh

Karabakh is a region that cannot be understood without its recent history. In September 2023, Azerbaijan completed the recovery of the territory that since 1994 had been under Armenian administration as Nagorno-Karabakh. Almost the entire Armenian population left within days, and today the region is undergoing a profound transformation: cranes, scaffolding and freshly paved roads coexist with emptied buildings and villages that still bear the scars of three decades of conflict.

The city of Shusha — known as Shushi in Armenian — concentrates the main Azerbaijani reconstruction efforts. Renovated cobblestone streets, the restored Upper Mosque of Govhar Agha and several palaces of the khanate of Karabakh make up a historic centre that is recovering its shape, though many premises and services have yet to open. In Khankendi — called Stepanakert by the Armenians —, the former de facto capital of the territory, construction work is visible on every corner.

Those who travel here do so with a specific purpose: to understand first-hand one of the fastest and most complex transformations in the contemporary Caucasus. The mountain landscape — open valleys, beech forests on the slopes, gorges with running water even in summer — adds a natural dimension that is eclipsed by the political context, but which deserves attention. This is not a conventional tourism destination; it is a destination for observers.

Karabakh has passed through Persian, Russian, Armenian and Azerbaijani hands over the centuries. During the period of the khanate of Karabakh in the eighteenth century, Shusha was a significant cultural and musical centre in the Caucasus. With the Russian annexation in the nineteenth century, the region was integrated into the Empire. After the Soviet collapse, the first Nagorno-Karabakh war (1988–1994) left the territory under Armenian control. A fragile ceasefire lasted until 2020, when a 44-day war returned much of the territory to Azerbaijan. In September 2023 a rapid military operation completed that recovery, and virtually the entire Armenian population emigrated within days.

• Shusha The most emblematic city of the region, at about 1,400 metres altitude. The Ghazanchetsots Cathedral — of controversial use since 2020 — and the Palace of the Khan of Karabakh are the historical reference points. The centre is under active construction, but some cobbled streets already give a sense of the scale of the project.
• Dadivank Monastery Twelfth-century Armenian monastic complex in northern Karabakh, in a mountainous forested area. One of the best-preserved medieval complexes in the region; access depends on the state of the road and current permits at the time of the visit.
• Agdam A city that was almost entirely destroyed during the nineties conflict and was known as the Hiroshima of the Caucasus. The Agdam Mosque survived among the rubble; today the city is undergoing full reconstruction and the contrast between what it was and what is being built is very striking.
• Tartar River Gorges The valleys of the Tartar and its tributaries offer mountain scenery with dense forests and abundant water. Some hiking routes are being established; it is worth asking your agency which ones are operational at the time of your trip.
• Khankendi (Stepanakert) The former de facto capital of the Armenian territory, today under intense construction. Useful for understanding the scale of the ongoing change; there is not much to see in the usual tourist sense, but a great deal to observe.

Photo gallery

From Baku, Karabakh is reached by road, some 300–350 km that with the new infrastructure can be covered in 4–5 hours. Foreign travellers must coordinate their visit with an authorised Azerbaijani travel agency before departing; there is no regular public transport for tourists. It is advisable to verify the up-to-date access requirements at the Azerbaijani Embassy in your country, as conditions change frequently.

Spring (May–June) and autumn (September–October) are the most comfortable times: moderate temperatures in Shusha and the mountain valleys, and good light for visiting the sites under reconstruction. Summer is hot in the lower areas. Regardless of the time of year, always check the access situation with your operator before confirming dates, as construction work or restrictions may close specific locations without prior notice.