Ismayilli

Ismayilli (İsmayıllı in Azerbaijani) is a city most travellers use as a staging point before venturing into the valleys of the Greater Caucasus. The road from Baku along the M2 highway says it all: the grey plains of Absheron gradually give way to oak-covered hills and rivers rushing down from the peaks. In mid-July, when Baku hovers around 38 degrees, Ismayilli is several degrees cooler, and that, for residents of the capital, is reason enough to come.

The city centre revolves around a main avenue flanked by shops, small cafés and the Ismayilli central bazaar. Inside the market the air combines freshly served black çay, dried thyme tied in bunches and the sharp smell of tanned leather. On Saturday mornings the flow of local shoppers is more noticeable; prices are considerably lower than in the capital and it is the right place to buy seasonal fruit, spices or leather goods without paying tourist rates, though it is wise to bargain discreetly.

Accommodation in Ismayilli is modest: small hotels and guesthouses at accessible prices that make it a comfortable base for exploring the surroundings at leisure. The village of Lahij, about 60 km away, concentrates most of the region's tourist interest, but Basqal and the trails of the Ismayilli Nature Reserve are also worth visiting. Those who arrive with enough time discover that the city has its own unhurried pace, different from the mountain villages but equally genuine.

The region around Ismayilli has been a pass for mountain routes between the southern Caucasus and the northern valleys for centuries. The hillside communities, especially Lahij, maintain craft traditions documented since the medieval period: the hammered copper workshops of Lahij are mentioned in 18th-century travellers' accounts and the activity continues today in the same cobblestone lanes. The town of Ismayilli itself was consolidated as an administrative centre during the Soviet period, when the infrastructure that still structures the municipality was laid out. Basqal, another nearby village, preserves a silk tradition of possibly Persian origin; its kelagai — printed silk scarves — were inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2014.

• Ismayilli central bazaar A covered market where on Saturday mornings the stalls fill with seasonal fruit, spices, local honey and tanned leather goods. Worth arriving early to see the activity at its peak.
• Village of Lahij About 60 km along a road of tight hairpin bends, this medieval village preserves active mis (hammered copper) workshops in almost every courtyard. The main street is cobbled with river stones and the constant sound of hammered metal accompanies the entire walk.
• Village of Basqal A craft village known for the production of kelagai, printed silk scarves declared Intangible Heritage by UNESCO. Quieter than Lahij and with fewer visitors.
• Ismayilli Nature Reserve A forested area in the foothills of the Greater Caucasus with lightly marked trails and varied wildlife. Some sections require a permit; it is worth checking in town before going.
• Rivers and pools of the foothills Several cold rivers descend from the Caucasus through the area; there are natural pools accessible on foot or by car from the main road, very popular with families in summer.

Photo gallery

Ismayilli is about 170 km northwest of Baku via the M2 highway, which is in good condition year-round. Buses and marshrutkas depart several times a day from Baku's central bus station; the journey takes 2.5 to 3 hours. From Ismayilli there are local taxis to Lahij, Basqal and other villages in the area; the road to Lahij has sections with tight bends that should not be underestimated.

April to June and September to October offer the most comfortable weather, with temperatures between 15 and 24 degrees and a green landscape. In July and August families from Baku arrive to escape the heat, and accommodation fills up at weekends; advance booking is recommended. In winter it can snow at higher elevations and the road to Lahij may close, although Ismayilli itself remains accessible year-round.