Heydar Aliyev Center

From Heydar Aliyev Avenue, in the Narimanov district, the building stands out from several blocks away: a white, undulating mass that looks as though it grew from the ground rather than being built on it. Up close, the fibreglass cladding has something of taut skin about it; there is not a single straight corner anywhere on the facade of the Heydar Aliyev Center. In strong sunlight the surface bounces light with an almost uncomfortable intensity, but at dusk it takes on a warm tone that contrasts well with the Baku sky.

The interior follows the same fluid logic: continuous ramps that rise and fall without visible steps, a space that disorients anyone trying to get their bearings quickly. The permanent exhibitions on Azerbaijani history and culture are well put together, with texts in Azerbaijani, Russian and English. The carpet hall — with pieces from Quba, Karabakh and other regional schools — and the room dedicated to medieval manuscripts are the most visited. The central auditorium hosts concerts and screenings regularly; it's worth checking the programme before you go.

Around the building, the Heydar Aliyev Center Park has well-kept green areas where Bakuvians stroll in the evenings, especially in spring. Admission to the exhibitions costs around 15 manat (about €8–9); students pay a reduced rate. The interior café works fine, though prices are above the local average.

The Heydar Aliyev Center opened in 2012 in Baku, on the site of a former Soviet park in the Narimanov district. It was designed by Iranian-British architect Zaha Hadid, who created one of her most celebrated projects here: no right angles, no cornices, with the roof flowing down to the ground until it becomes the park's pavement. The building bears the name of President Heydar Aliyev, who governed Azerbaijan from 1993 until his death in 2003 and is considered a founding figure of the post-Soviet state. In 2014 the Design Museum in London awarded it the Design of the Year prize, giving it international visibility and placing it on the contemporary architecture circuit.

• Exterior facade and park The white fibreglass curvature of the Heydar Aliyev Center is the most photographed landmark in modern Baku; the surrounding park has benches and lawn where locals rest in the evenings.
• Permanent exhibition on Azerbaijani history Covers prehistoric times to independence with scale models, archaeological objects and panels in Azerbaijani, Russian and English. Allow between one and a half and two hours.
• Carpet and craft hall A representative collection from the country's different carpet-weaving schools; pieces from Quba and Karabakh stand out for their knot density and natural dyes.
• Manuscripts and miniatures room Reproductions and originals of illuminated medieval books from the Azerbaijani cultural tradition, with well-explained historical context.
• Auditorium and temporary exhibitions The central space of the Heydar Aliyev Center hosts concerts, screenings and rotating exhibitions; check the official website's programme before visiting.

Photo gallery

The Heydar Aliyev Center is on Heydar Aliyev Avenue, in the Narimanov district. The nearest metro station is Nariman Narimanov (green line), about 10–12 minutes on foot. Bus 125 also runs from the city centre. A Bolt from Icheri Sheher (the old city) costs between 4 and 6 manat. There is surface parking next to the building, which fills up by mid-morning at weekends.

The Heydar Aliyev Center is open all year round. In summer, when Baku tops 38 °C, the air-conditioned interior is a welcome escape. Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) are the most comfortable seasons for combining the indoor tour with a walk through the outdoor park. In winter the building operates normally, but the Caspian wind makes lingering outside unappealing.