Yerevan Brandy Factory

Before crossing the Bridge of Victory you can already smell it: damp oak, evaporating alcohol and a sweet undercurrent rising from the thousands of barrels buried beneath the Razdan riverbank. The Yerevan Brandy Factory occupies an entire city block beside the river, with its Armenian neoclassical facade and an interior courtyard where tours begin. From the bridge, the building competes in silhouette with the cascade and the Ararat in the background.

The guided tour lasts between 45 minutes and an hour and a half. You pass through the distillation halls —copper pot stills working with Areni grape spirit— and through the ageing galleries: rows of Limousin oak barrels under stone vaulted ceilings, at constant temperature whether it is 38 degrees or minus ten outside. At the end there is a tasting of two or three Ararat expressions, from the 3-year-old to reserves of 10 or more. The difference between the first and the last is noticeable even without knowing anything about distilled spirits.

The anecdote every guide repeats is that Churchill received barrels of Ararat as a gift from Stalin and became a fan of Armenian brandy. The story changes depending on who tells it, but the barrels bearing the names of illustrious visitors are still there, and so is the smell of damp oak.

Founded in 1887 by Nerses Tairyan, the distillery grew under Nikolai Shustov in the early 20th century, who took the brand beyond Armenia and won prizes at European trade fairs. After Sovietisation it was nationalised and became the official producer of Soviet cognac, served at state banquets. After independence in 1991 it went through several privatisations before Pernod Ricard bought it in 1998. The French group maintains production and the Ararat brand, although the local debate about whether to call it cognac or brandy remains unresolved.

• Distillation halls Copper pot stills where the double distillation of the base spirit takes place, made from Areni and other Armenian grape varieties. The heat and the smell of alcohol are intense.
• Ageing cellars Underground galleries with thousands of oak barrels lined up beneath stone vaults. The guide points out the oldest ones, some resting for decades with handwritten labels.
• Reserve collection A display cabinet with historical bottles and limited editions from the Soviet era that are not for sale. Some still have their original wax seal.
• Tasting room Three Ararat expressions served in tulip glasses; the progression from the 3-year-old to the 10-year-old is first apparent on the nose and then on the palate, with a longer and more spiced finish.
• Factory shop Direct sales of all ranges, including expressions that are not exported. Prices are 10 to 20 per cent lower than in city shops.

The factory is on Admiral Isakov Street, next to the Razdan river, about 15 minutes on foot downhill from Republic Square. By taxi from the centre you arrive in five minutes for under 600 drams. Tours are booked in advance on the official website or at reception. Spanish-language tours are rare; English and Russian tours run more frequently. Standard opening hours Monday to Saturday.

It can be visited year-round: the cellars maintain a stable temperature regardless of the season. Between May and October it is worth booking several days in advance because organised groups fill places quickly, especially mid-morning. In winter there are fewer visitors and you can book the day before; the contrast between the cold outside and the warmth of the distillation halls has its own charm.