Yerevan Cascade

The Cascade is, at different times of day, different things. In the morning runners and residents with shopping bags climb it. At midday tourists pause on the steps with their phones pointed south, looking for Ararat, which appears or not depending on the state of the sky. At dusk the stairway fills with Yerevanites of all ages who go up and down without apparent purpose, something that in itself makes the walk worthwhile.

The most interesting thing is not the steps themselves but what surrounds them: outdoor sculptures by international artists — Fernando Botero has several pieces here, including his characteristic fat cat — and, inside the building, the Cafesjian Center for the Arts galleries with modern Armenian art and European art glass. The interior lift operates during museum hours, so going up without sweating is possible. From the upper terrace the city of pink volcanic tufa extends southward; when Ararat appears, it does so with its two snow-capped peaks already in Turkish territory. On hazy days — more common than the photos suggest — nothing is visible.

The project was born in the Soviet era as a monumental urban axis to connect central Yerevan with the residential neighbourhoods on the northern hills. Construction began in the seventies, but the dissolution of the USSR left it unfinished for more than a decade. In the early 2000s, Armenian-American collector Gerard Cafesjian funded the completion of the complex and created the art centre that bears his name. The result is a peculiar hybrid: Soviet-scale architecture and a contemporary art collection that do not always fit together perfectly, but together define one of the most recognisable public spaces in the city.

• Stairway and gardens Seven levels with fountains, flowerbeds and sculptures; walking up takes between 15 and 20 minutes at a leisurely pace.
• Botero sculptures The Colombian artist's voluminous figures are the most photographed on the outdoor route; the fat cat is on the middle levels.
• Cafesjian Center for the Arts Indoor galleries with modern Armenian and international art; paid entry (around 1,000 drams). The interior lift operates during visiting hours.
• Upper terrace The highest point of the complex; views over Yerevan and, on clear days, Ararat to the south.
• France Square The square at the foot of the Cascade, with the statue of Charles Aznavour inaugurated in 2018 and several café terraces where you can wait or rest.

The Cascade is in central Yerevan, about 10 minutes' walk from Republic Square. The nearest metro station is Yeritasardakan, about 15 minutes' walk to the east. Zvartnots Airport is 12 km from the centre; a taxi costs between 15 and 20 dollars, and bus 106 reaches the centre for 100 drams. The outdoor area is freely accessible during the day.

Spring, from April to June, is the most pleasant time: mild temperatures, gardens in bloom and the best chance of seeing Ararat before summer haze sets in. September and October also work well. In July and August the midday heat is notable — above 35 °C is common — so it is best to visit early or at dusk. Winters are cold but the stairway remains accessible.