Borjomi

Borjomi smells different from the moment the bus descends the last bend before entering the valley: pine resin mixed with a mineral note rising from the Borjomula River. The town is small and elongated, wedged between wooded hillsides, with a main street lined with hotels, khinkali restaurants and stalls selling mineral water in bottles or straight from park taps. The wooden-gallery buildings on Baratashvili Street give the centre a texture reminiscent of old Central European spa towns, though without the artifice.

The Central Park — also known as the Thermal Park — is the heart of the visit: a late-19th-century garden with wrought-iron pavilions, a entrance gazebo, a spring pavilion and benches where locals and visitors sit to drink straight from the tap. The taste is mineral, slightly carbonated and with a metallic edge that not everyone appreciates; worth trying before buying boxes to take home. Inside the park there is also a Prometheus monument and wooded areas where the atmosphere is noticeably cooler than in the centre.

The forest surroundings are what make Borjomi a destination worth more than one day: the trails starting from the park allow you to escape urban noise in less than twenty minutes on foot. The town is on a human scale, prices are reasonable compared to Tbilisi, and its location makes it a good base to explore Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park or visit Rabati Castle in Akhaltsikhe.

The waters of Borjomi were known in the region since the Middle Ages, but the modern town was born with the arrival of the Romanovs in the 19th century: Prince Mikhail Vorontsov ordered the first spas built in the 1840s, and the imperial family soon adopted the place as a summer resort. The water began to be bottled in the late 19th century and the brand survived the Soviet period without disappearing. Today the green bottle of Borjomi is the most recognised mineral water brand in Georgia and is exported to dozens of countries; for many Georgians, drinking it is almost an act of identity.

• Thermal Park and mineral springs The historic heart of the town, with the entrance gazebo, the spring pavilion and taps where you can sample the water directly. The two springs have different mineral concentrations; entry to the park is free.
• Cable car to the viewpoint Rises from the Thermal Park to a viewpoint over the Borjomula River valley. From the top, forest trails lead through pines and firs; there is a small amusement park at the summit.
• Mtsvane Kontskhi Park Forest area north of the town with marked trails of two to three hours among conifers. A good starting point to escape the centre without needing transport.
• Romanov Palace of Likani Imperial summer villa about 5 km from the centre, on the banks of the Mtkvari River. The building is under restoration and interior access is limited, but the wooded park surrounding it is peaceful and pleasant for a stroll.
• Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park visitor centre About 3 km from the centre of Borjomi; here you collect route maps and hire guides for one-day or multi-day treks in one of the largest national parks in the Caucasus.
• Beauty Bridge and walk along the Borjomula River The Beauty Bridge and the nearby twisted bridge over the Borjomula offer good views of the Crowne Plaza Hotel and the wooded canyon that frames the town.

Photo gallery

Borjomi is about 160 km from Tbilisi. The train from Tbilisi Central Station takes around three hours (from 5 GEL); there are several daily services. Marshrutkas from Didube station are faster (around 150 minutes) and depart more frequently throughout the day. From Borjomi there are direct marshrutka connections to Akhaltsikhe (45 minutes), the access point for Rabati monastery-fortress. The nearest airport is Tbilisi International Airport.

Summer (June–August) is high season: parks fill up, hotels should be booked in advance and prices rise. Spring and autumn are quieter and Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park looks its best: deep green in May, yellow and red in October. Winter in Borjomi is cold but not extreme; the town stays open, the Thermal Park remains accessible and the mineral water is always there, though several restaurants reduce their hours.