Bodbe Monastery

Bodbe Monastery sits on a wooded hill two kilometres from Sighnaghi, and the first thing that strikes you on entering is the silence. The nuns of the active convent move slowly between the dark stone buildings, the paths are well kept and the gardens combine roses, cypresses and the occasional apple tree. There is none of the group crowding that can occur at Mtskheta; the pace here is quieter.

The Church of Saint Nino — or Tsminda Nino in Georgian — is the heart of the complex. The interior is covered in restored medieval frescoes, with that combination of muted gold and deep blue typical of Kakhetian religious art. In the left side aisle is the tomb of the saint, marked by a marble slab always covered in fresh flowers and lit candles. The smell of wax and incense clings to your clothes. At weekends and on dates such as Ninooba — the feast of Saint Nino in January — the church fills with Georgian families who come to pray at the tomb, not as tourists.

From the terraced gardens of Bodbe Monastery you can see the Alazani plain with its grid of vineyards stretching to the foot of the Greater Caucasus. In clear weather in spring and autumn, the mountain range appears snow-covered to the north. About two kilometres downhill along a path through oak trees is a sacred spring where pilgrims collect water in plastic bottles; the path is easy but comfortable shoes are advisable.

Entry to the complex is free. The monastery is open every day from early morning until dusk; on religious feast days there may be access restrictions for non-Orthodox visitors to certain areas. Silence is requested inside the church, and shoulders and knees should be covered; wraps are usually available at the entrance.

Saint Nino came to Georgia from Cappadocia around 330 AD and evangelised the Kakheti region for decades. According to the tradition recorded in Georgian chronicles, she chose this hilltop above the Alazani plain as her retreat and asked to be buried here before she died. A first oratory was built over her tomb almost immediately, and the site has been a pilgrimage destination ever since. The current structure of the Church of Saint Nino is largely 17th-century, though it has undergone several restorations during the 19th and 20th centuries. The women's convent has been continuously active since the Middle Ages, with a resident religious community that maintains the complex and celebrates the daily offices.

• Church of Saint Nino The main nave with restored medieval frescoes and the tomb of the saint in the left side aisle, always with lit candles and fresh flowers. Note the detail of the inscriptions in asomtavruli, the oldest Georgian alphabet, in the fresco frames.
• Monastery gardens Terraced gardens with roses, cypresses and fruit trees, the best vantage point for photographing the Alazani plain and the vineyards of Kakheti. The afternoon light is particularly good.
• Bell tower A free-standing tower in the outer enclosure, 19th-century. From its base you get a good frame of the full facade of the Church of Saint Nino with the garden in the foreground.
• Sacred spring About two kilometres downhill along a path through oaks and beeches. Georgian pilgrims splash water on their faces and fill bottles to take away. The walk down takes about 25–30 minutes; the return uphill takes a little longer.
• Viewpoint over Alazani The highest point of the gardens offers views across the Alazani plain to the Greater Caucasus. With a clear sky in May or October, the mountain range appears with snow in the background.

Photo gallery

Bodbe Monastery is 2 km from Sighnaghi, the walled town of Kakheti. From Tbilisi, direct marshrutkas run to Sighnaghi from Samgori station (about 2 hours, around 10 GEL). From Sighnaghi to the monastery you can walk uphill in 25–30 minutes or take a local taxi for 5–10 GEL. It is also possible to drive from Tbilisi in about 90 minutes along the motorway towards Telavi.

May and June are the most pleasant months to visit Bodbe Monastery: the gardens are in bloom, the temperature on the hill is cool and visibility towards the Greater Caucasus is good. September and October coincide with rtveli — the grape harvest — in Kakheti, adding activity to the whole region. Summer can exceed 35 °C on the Alazani plain, though the monastery at altitude is somewhat cooler. Winter is mild, but the access road can be icy on some days.