Mount Aragats

Mount Aragats is not a single summit but an extinct volcanic massif with four peaks surrounding an open central crater. From the road that climbs up from Aparan or from the village of Aragats, the dark bulk of the volcano occupies the entire northern horizon. As you gain altitude, the pastures thin out and the terrain becomes stony and burnt-ochre in colour; the contrast with the green valleys of the Kasagh river below is abrupt and visible.

Lake Kari, at around 3,200 metres, is the most accessible point by car and the one that receives the most visitors in summer. The water has that steely blue typical of high-altitude lakes, the temperature rarely exceeds 15 °C and the wind arrives without warning. You need to bring warm clothing even if you set off in the heat from Yerevan. Around the lake there are a few stalls selling coffee and sandwiches; do not expect anything organised, but the shelter is welcome.

The north peak, the highest point in Armenia at 4,090 metres, requires between four and six hours of hiking from the lake. No technical experience is needed, but strong legs and layers of clothing are essential because the wind can be very strong near the top. The other three peaks are more approachable. On the mid-slopes, the remains of the Soviet scientific station and the fortress of Amberd add layers of history to a landscape that would otherwise be pure basalt and silence.

Mount Aragats appears in pre-Christian Armenian mythology as the home of gods and the setting for heroic battles; the medieval epic poem Sasna Tsrer places some of its scenes here. After the Christianisation of Armenia in the 4th century, the sacred character of the massif did not disappear but merged with the new faith. On the mid-slopes, the Pahlavuni dynasty built the fortress of Amberd between the 7th and 11th centuries, controlling the mountain passes to the north. During the Soviet era a cosmic ray research station was installed at altitude and operated until the 1990s; its buildings still stand, abandoned with broken windows.

• Lake Kari At 3,200 m, accessible by car along a well-maintained dirt track. In summer the water is a deep blue and the shore is scattered with black volcanic rocks. There are seasonal coffee and sandwich stalls.
• North peak (4,090 m) The highest point in Armenia. The ascent from Lake Kari takes between 4 and 6 hours; no technical equipment is required, but good fitness and windproof clothing are. Views of Ararat on clear days are the reward.
• Fortress of Amberd At around 2,300 m, this medieval fortress with an adjoining 11th-century church is well preserved and offers broad views over the valley of the Kasagh river. The access road is paved.
• Amberd waterfall A few minutes on foot from the Amberd fortress car park, a short path leads to a narrow waterfall running between basalt blocks.
• Soviet scientific station The abandoned cosmic ray research facilities high on Aragats have a certain ruinous appeal. You can enter, though the condition of the buildings is precarious.

Photo gallery

Mount Aragats is about 40 km north-west of Yerevan. Take the road towards Aparan and follow the signs for Aragats or Amberd. There is no direct public transport to the massif; the usual approach is to rent a car or book a day trip from Yerevan. The road to the fortress of Amberd is paved; the one that climbs to Lake Kari has dirt sections that are best covered in a vehicle with some ground clearance.

The best window is from July to September: the peaks of Aragats are clear of snow and the temperature at altitude is cool but manageable. In June there may be residual snow in the crater. October brings fog and the first snowfalls. From November to May the access roads to Lake Kari are usually closed. Northern winds can pick up at any time of year, so always bring a windproof layer.