Basqal

Basqal is a village in the foothills of the Greater Caucasus, about 100 km northwest of Baku, famous throughout Azerbaijan since the 18th century for producing kelaghayi — a fine silk headscarf with traditional geometric patterns that Azerbaijani women wear at ceremonies. It is one of the few places where artisanal silk weaving continues as an everyday activity rather than just a tourist reconstruction.

The historic centre has cobbled streets with stone and brick houses from the 18th and 19th centuries, some with carved wooden balconies. There are several open workshops where you can see the natural dyeing process and hand weaving on traditional looms. Scarf prices vary considerably: authentic handmade ones are expensive; more recently produced ones are more affordable.

The village has a much quieter pace of life than Baku and the contrast is real. There is no hotel, but there are guesthouses that welcome visitors. The combination of architectural texture, living craft and mountain landscape gives Basqal a unique character in Azerbaijan.

Basqal reached its peak in the 18th and 19th centuries as a silk production centre supplying markets as far as Persia and Russia. The Basqal kelaghayi was inscribed on UNESCO's Intangible Heritage list in 2014. The village once had over thirty families dedicated to weaving; the number reduced in the Soviet era but the tradition never completely died out.

• Kelaghayi weaving workshops Several workshops in the historic centre allow you to see the complete process: dyeing with pomegranate, saffron and other plants, and loom weaving. Some sell directly to visitors.
• Historic centre streets The stone core of the village with 18th and 19th-century houses, some open to the public. The scale and texture are unlike anywhere else in Azerbaijan.
• Valley view The village sits on a hillside with views over the valley and the mountains of the Greater Caucasus. The best views are from the top of the village, at sunset.

Photo gallery

Basqal is about 100 km northwest of Baku. There is no direct public transport; the most common option is your own car or a taxi from Baku (2–2.5 hours). The visit combines well with Ismayilli and the neighbouring villages of the northwest wine region.

Spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October) are the best times. In June and July the weaving workshops are in full production. Summer is pleasant at this altitude (about 900 m). In winter the village is quiet and some workshops close.