Astara

Astara sits at the southern tip of Azerbaijan, right on the border with Iran: the border crossing is inside the city, and the line separating the two countries runs through the Astara-Chai river. The city is small and has a different pace of life from northern cities — slower, hotter in summer, with a border-town atmosphere that blends Azerbaijani and Persian influences.

The region is the main tea-producing area of Azerbaijan. Tea plantations extend to the city outskirts and local markets sell dried leaves and packaged tea produced in the area. Caspian fish — especially carp and smoked eel — features in all the restaurants in the centre. The morning bazaar by the river has a local quality worth an hour of exploring.

Astara is not a tourist destination with infrastructure aimed at foreign visitors, but it has an authenticity of southern Azerbaijan that contrasts with the northern cities. It combines well with a visit to Hirkan National Park, a few kilometres away.

Astara was for centuries a transit point on the trade route between Persia and the Caucasus. Its position on the Caspian coast and at the junction of land and sea routes gave it a strategic importance that persisted through Russian rule in the 19th century and the Soviet era. The Talysh culture — an Iranian minority speaking a Persian language who have inhabited this region for millennia — maintains an active presence in Astara and surrounding villages. Tea was planted in the region during the Soviet era as a replacement crop and became the productive identity of the area.

• Astara morning bazaar The market by the Astara-Chai river with fresh produce, local tea, Caspian fish and everyday goods. Most lively between 7 and 10 in the morning.
• Tea plantations The hills east of the city have active plantations; during harvest season (May–October) the hand-picking process can be seen. Some farms receive visitors.
• Border zone with Iran The bridge over the Astara-Chai separates Azerbaijan from Iran; the view of both sides from the bank has a unique character found nowhere else in the country.
• Caspian beaches The coast near Astara has pebble and fine sand beaches frequented by local Azerbaijanis in summer. Less touristy than the beaches further north.

Photo gallery

Astara is about 260 km south of Baku along the M3 motorway following the Caspian coast. Regular buses run from Baku (4–5 hours). By car the journey takes about 3 hours. The nearest airport is Baku. From Astara, Hirkan National Park is about 20 km away.

Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–October) are the best seasons: moderate heat and good vegetation. Summer is hot and humid — Astara is one of the most humid cities in Azerbaijan. Winter is mild compared to the north of the country.