Ashtarak

Ashtarak is just 20 kilometres northwest of Yerevan, in the valley of the Kasagh river, and is one of the small towns with the most character in the Armenian capital's surroundings. The historic centre has several medieval churches within minutes of each other, a 17th-century stone bridge still in use and streets with grey tuff houses that retain the human scale of a town that grew slowly.

The town is also known nationally for its traditional sweets: the Ashtarak tolma, a local variant of stuffed vine leaves, and gata — a sweet pastry with a walnut or sugar filling — sold in the bakeries in the centre. The Saturday morning market near the bridge brings together vendors of vegetables, cheeses and honey from the Aragatsotn region.

The visit can be as long as you like: a two-hour stop at the churches and the bridge, or a full day combining with churches in the surrounding area. It is not a main tourist destination but has an everyday authenticity — morning coffee, open churches, the market — that justifies the trip out of Yerevan.

Ashtarak has documented history from the Middle Ages, when it was an administrative and religious centre of the Aragatsotn region. The medieval churches in the centre — Surb Mariane, Surb Sarkis and Karmravor — were built between the 5th and 13th centuries. The 17th-century stone bridge over the Kasagh is one of the few surviving examples of medieval Armenian civil engineering still in daily use. The town expanded considerably in the Soviet era as an industrial city, but the historic centre has kept its character.

• Karmravor Church (7th century) One of the oldest intact churches in Armenia: a compact pink tuff structure with a characteristic conical roof. Minimalist interior with soft light.
• Surb Sarkis Church (13th century) Larger and more elaborate than Karmravor, with a well-preserved 13th-century gavit and khachkars on the exterior walls.
• 17th-century stone bridge A single-arch crossing over the Kasagh, still used by pedestrians. From the top of the bridge you can see the canyon and the tuff houses on the banks.
• Kasagh canyon The river has carved a canyon with red and orange walls that runs through the town. The oldest churches are at the canyon edges, taking advantage of the defensive position.
• Saturday morning market Local vendors from Aragatsotn with vegetables, cheeses, honey and regional produce. The best point of contact with the town's daily life.

Photo gallery

Ashtarak is 20 km from Yerevan along the M1 road towards Gyumri. There are frequent marshrutkas from Yerevan (Kilikia station) to Ashtarak, with a journey time of 30–40 minutes. By taxi from Yerevan, the trip costs around 3,000–4,000 drams. By car it is an easy morning outing.

Ashtarak is visitable year-round. Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons. In September and October the orchards of the Aragatsotn region are in full production — apples, pears and grapes reach the market. Winter is cold but the town functions normally; the churches are heated.