Alaverdi Monastery

Driving north from Telavi, the silhouette of St George's Cathedral appears suddenly over the plain without warning: nearly 55 metres of grey stone breaking the flat horizon of the vineyards in the Alazani Valley, with the snow-capped Greater Caucasus range closing off the background. The scale disorients you before you even cross the walls. Inside, your eyes take time to adjust to the gloom and you soon have to tilt your head back to make out the fragments of medieval frescoes clinging to the vaults.

Alaverdi Monastery is not a frozen monument: there are monks, there are tended gardens inside the enclosure and wine is made in the cellars from grapes grown in the monastery's own vineyards. The monastic winery uses kvevri — clay amphorae buried in the ground — the traditional Georgian method of winemaking. In autumn, the smell of must seeps into the cathedral and mingles with candle smoke. In some years the monastery opens the September harvest to visitors; it is worth checking before you travel.

The 17th-century walled enclosure can be walked at leisure. Entry to the courtyard is free; visiting the winery requires a guide and may need advance booking. Visitors are asked to cover shoulders and knees, as the complex is active and monks are strict about this. On Sunday mornings there is a liturgy and the cathedral is more crowded.

Alaverdi was founded in the 6th century by the monk Joseph of Alaverdi, one of the Thirteen Syrian Fathers who came to evangelise Georgia from Syria and Antioch. The monumental cathedral seen today dates from the 11th century, built under King George I of Georgia. Over the following centuries it was extended, sacked in several Persian invasions and rebuilt after each restoration. In the 17th century the current defensive walls were raised and the monastic winery formalised. Alaverdi was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1994 along with other monuments in Kakheti and remains one of the most important religious centres of the Georgian Orthodox Apostolic Church.

• St George's Cathedral The main nave reaches almost 55 metres in interior height. The fragments of medieval frescoes — some from the 11th century, others from later restorations — are high up; lightweight binoculars help appreciate them. The silence is dense even with visitors.
• Defensive walls and towers The 17th-century walled enclosure surrounds the entire complex. You can walk along its inner perimeter and climb one of the towers for views over the plain and the Kakheti vineyards.
• Monastic winery with kvevri The cellars produce wine using the traditional Georgian method, with kvevri — buried clay amphorae — for fermentation. Visitable with a guide; in high season it is worth coordinating in advance at the monastery itself.
• Gardens and internal orchards The monks maintain gardens within the walled enclosure. In September they coincide with the harvest and the atmosphere is quite different from the rest of the year.
• Panorama over the Alazani Valley From outside the enclosure, the combination of St George's Cathedral, the vine fields and the peaks of the Greater Caucasus in the background is one of the most recognisable horizons in all of Kakheti. The late afternoon light gives the grey stone of the cathedral a warm tone.

Photo gallery

Alaverdi is about 18 km north of Telavi, the capital of Kakheti. From Tbilisi, frequent marshrutkas to Telavi depart from Samgori station (about 2 hours). From Telavi, a taxi to the monastery costs around 15–20 GEL (5–7 USD). By private car from Tbilisi it is about 130 km; you can go via the Gombori road (slower, with views) or across the plain via Gurjaani. It is a regular stop on Kakheti wine-tour routes.

Kakheti is visitable almost year-round. May–June offers green vineyards and temperatures of 20–25 °C. September–October is harvest time: the monastic winery is in full swing and the autumn light is very favourable for photographing the cathedral. July and August are hot on the plain, with highs up to 35 °C. Winter is cold but dry, and with snow on the Greater Caucasus peaks in the background the complex takes on a more austere, tranquil atmosphere.